| Walk-Through and Punch-Out |
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The walk-through, also known as a new home presentation or orientation, is your chance to review the final product delivered to you. You will be given the opportunity to document any problems (creating what is called a “Punch List”) you have with the home and have them corrected before you close. If you have taken HomeBuilding Pitfalls’ recommendations throughout your building process, your walk-through should be a breeze. If not, major items that may be difficult to repair at this stage could appear and make your last step in the process a difficult one. Another function of the walk-through is to learn about the operation and care of the home. Since this is a new home, you may not be familiar with some of the new features. It is the builder’s role to explain them to you. Be sure to ask questions; it’s the builder’s job to know the answer. The reality is that he may not always know the right answer, so try to verify anything that may sound unreasonable. I was at a walk-through with a builder and a customer asked what was under the black cap in the basement floor. The builder told the customer it was a check valve (which was correct) that prevented any of the toilets in the home from overflowing (which is not correct). In this case, the check valve was installed to prevent sewage from surrounding homes from backing up into the lower level of the home. There are some items the person conducting your walk-through must explain, show, or demonstrate to you.
Your walk-through should take place after your architect or inspector has completed a thorough inspection of the entire finished home and checked for the proper installation and operation of all the building components, code, and industry standard compliance. You should have a copy of the final report to use during the walk-through to review with the builder.
Before the walk-through, the home must be clean and 100 percent complete. If the home is not clean, it is difficult to identify damage to items such as cabinets and counter tops whose cosmetic condition may not be warranted after closing. If finish items (such as carpet or baseboards) are missing at the walk-through, the chance of damaging some other part of the home when they are installed increases, creating more delays and problems. To cut down on confusion, bring along a copy of the contract, plans, specifications, options, selections, and change orders for the house. If a color or fixture is wrong, it is much easier to prove when you have documentation of what you ordered. If industry standards apply in the area, make sure you not only understand them, but also bring them along. This comes in handy when questions arise about when something such a crack in a concrete slab warrants repair or replacement. Your walk-through should be conducted with the supervisor or person you have been dealing with up to this point. Sometimes builders use one of their service technicians or warranty representatives to perform the walk-through. If the supervisor who is familiar with you and the job is not present, the person conducting the walk-through may not be familiar with any ongoing issues you have had with the home. Moreover, you will be wasting time bringing that person up to speed. Having both the supervisor and the warranty representative (or whoever will be responsible for any warranty claims you have on the home after closing) present could be a benefit. It would be in the best interest of whoever handles your claims after closing to ensure that your home is in good shape before closing. The builder may have performed dozens or even hundreds of walk-throughs, and may have a set routine. A routine is fine as long as it doesn’t rush things along, make you uncomfortable, or place the balance of power in his hands. Don’t let the builder dismiss your requests with comments like “We never do that,” “That’s as good as it gets,” or “That’s the way it’s supposed to be.” Remember, you should have already set the tone from day one in the building process: I am the customer, I have high expectations for the finished product, and I am going to protect myself to ensure that I get what I pay for. Do not allow the builder to bully you or pressure you into accepting a defect. If it’s not right don’t close. Industry Insight: “But we always do it that way.”
The fact that a builder “always does it that way” is in no way reassurance that it is the right way to do it. This is especially dangerous when it comes to production builders because they repeat the same techniques on every home. I have seen production builders repeat a flawed construction technique hundreds of times resulting in literally millions of dollars in damage. It is one thing to make a mistake, but another thing to make the mistake part of your routine and repeat it hundreds of times. If you are using a standardized “walk-through form” supplied by the builder that only has a few small lines to document the defects you find, forget about it! That is just a ploy to make it look like you should only have a few items that you need corrected or that the sheet is only for major problems that need to be addressed. I know of a builder who actually revised the walk-through form so that it had half as many preprinted lines to list items. Changing the form resulted in fewer items on each walk-through. If not many problems exist, great. But if many do exist, they need to be documented. You may need to use more than one form to list all of your “punch list” items or you can write “continued on page ___” on the original form and continue on another sheet. Don’t make any verbal agreements with the builder. If they really are going to do what they say, they shouldn’t have any problem putting it in writing! Don’t fall for any of their sob stories about how the supervisor will be fired if he has another punch list with a lot of items, etc. Oh, and one more thing— no side lists. A side list is a list of items the builder agrees to do — they just don’t want them on the “official” punch list form. Remember that the punch list form you are using is a legal document. Any other side lists you create hold no more weight than a verbal agreement. Some builder’s walk-through forms used to make punch lists actually contain language to the effect that no other agreements, verbal or written, have been made between you and the builder, or any of its employees or subcontractors. But you should know that because your attorney would have already reviewed it. I can’t stress enough how important it is to have the home complete before you close on the house and the builder gets its money. I have seen hundreds of cases where homeowners move into a home that “had just a few things” that needed to be completed. Well, those few things either took months to get done or were never completed at all. Just as important is never accepting a verbal agreement for work that needs to be completed after the walk-through. I have heard from HUNDREDS of homeowners who said someone “told me,” “promised me,” “swore to me” that “he was going to be back to fix it.” When the person who made the promise is fired, quits, or moves to another community, you will be left holding the bag caught playing a game of he-said she-said.
It is critical not only to document every problem, but also to have in writing exactly what the builder will do to correct the problem. For example, see the big difference between: Item 26 Scratch in counter top right of kitchen sink and
Item 26 Replace counter top due to scratch right of sink The first statement puts remedy of the problem at the discretion of the builder. The second statement clearly states your intended solution to the problem. Remember that your walk-through is to identify major items that need to be addressed. Do not be overly concerned about slight paint or drywall imperfections. You need to see the forest through the trees. If your face is plastered against the wall trying to find an imperfection in paint, you may miss something bigger, like a floor out of level. If you have followed the advice in HomeBuilding Pitfalls, you will undoubtedly have a reputation with the supervisor! The supervisor may not be used to the way that you are approaching the homebuilding process. While you may be known as the “picky customer,” they need to understand you are only trying to protect yourself and to get what you paid for— nothing more, nothing less. The supervisor should know and understand that. Through the Walk-Through You should check every room for the basics: Floors:
Walk into the room and check the floor for any imperfections, squeaks, stains, or scratches. Each area of the country has different industry standards, so make sure you read and understand them before you begin the walk-through. For instance, some industry standards allow for visible seams but do not permit loose subflooring. Carpeted areas should contain no visible color variations (regardless of what the industry standard says). Hardwood will expand and contract, showing gaps between boards, but the gaps should be consistent. Floor tile should not be chipped, gouged or scuffed. The grout should be a consistent color and not broken out anywhere. Vinyl flooring should be smooth without any visible seams or ridges from the underlayment.
Your builder should provide warranties for whatever floor coverings you have in your home. Just like all of the warranties you will be provided with, you need to activate your warranty by sending in the registration. If the builder uses good materials from reputable manufacturers, you will be protected long after your builder’s warranty expires. For example, the largest manufacturer of hardwood flooring, Bruce, offers a lifetime warranty against buckling and various warranties on the finish. Of course, to keep your warranty valid, you need to understand the proper care of the floor covering. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations rather than the builder’s advice. Walls and Ceilings:
As I mentioned, don’t expect perfection in the condition of the paint and drywall in every room, but make sure that it is complete. If any touch-ups were made, they should be seamless and not draw your attention. Because of the way people view ceilings, touch ups are often very noticeable. A total re-paint is usually necessary. You will be hanging pictures and covering up walls, but most people don’t do much to their ceilings, so insist that you want them done right. Doors:
Doors should close properly with a consistent reveal, meaning that when the door is shut, it is centered in the door frame. The doors and their frames will swell and shrink with changes in humidity, so it is not uncommon for doors in new homes to need adjustment within the first year. Sliding doors should roll freely without binding. If you have a spring-loaded door, to your garage for instance, it should close itself from any position. Switches and Plugs:
It is a good idea to bring along an outlet tester for the walk-through. They can be picked up for a few dollars at any hardware store. It makes it easy to run through a room and make sure every outlet works properly and ensure that the outlet is wired correctly. If a problem can be identified and corrected before closing, you will save the trouble of having an electrician cutting holes in your walls later. An electrical inspection is almost always required before your certificate of occupancy is issued in a home. But don’t think that the inspector went around and checked every outlet. In bathrooms and wet areas, a GFCI outlet is required. If a wet area contains several outlets, it is possible that the outlets are all wired together. The electrical tester will allow you to “trip” the circuit, cutting off power to simulate something like a hair dryer falling into water. If you do not have overhead light fixtures in a room, but instead have switched outlets, make sure that the outlets are wired correctly. Ask your builder to correct things you find quirky. If a series of switches seem counterintuitive, ask that they be put in an order that makes sense to you. For example, when you walk into a room, the first switch should be for a light, not a ceiling or exhaust fan. Check that all three-way switches work properly and that each switch will operate regardless of the position of the other. Windows:
As you go from room to room, check for the proper operation of each window. Moveable windows should hold their position when opened, tilt in with ease, and lock and unlock smoothly. If you have double-paned windows, there should not be any clouding or hazing between the panes. The windows need to be clean for the walk-through so that you can inspect the glass for any scratches. Bathrooms:
Besides the usual floors, walls, ceiling, paint, electrical (pay special attention to electrical in the bathroom!), test the plumbing. Make sure that the hot water comes out of the hot side and cold out of the cold side of the faucets and showers. It sounds basic, but it can and does get mixed up. Water pressure should be strong enough that water shoots and not dribbles out of showerheads or faucets. If you have a whirlpool tub, fill it up and try it out! Flush the toilet and check for any leaks around the base or where the water closet meets the bowl. Run the faucets and check for any leaks under the vanities. There are removable screens that can be unscrewed from the discharge or aerator of most faucets. This screen catches small particles inside the pipes, especially due to installation. Have your builder show you how to remove the aerator and clean the debris before you use the faucet.
Kitchens:
Just as in the bathroom, check the faucet for hot and cold water and leaks. Also check the operation of the garbage disposal with the water running. It is not at all unusual for construction debris to fall into the disposal during construction, so make sure that you hear no unusual sounds when the disposal is operating. Run the dishwasher through an entire cycle to check its operation and verify that it drains properly; you can just let it run while you walk through the rest of the house. Check each of the burners on the stove and turn on the oven. If you have an exhaust fan vented to the outside, make sure it really does force air out by turning on the unit and going outside to the discharge. Place a cup of coffee in the microwave and see if it works. Open all of the cabinets and drawers and make sure they look level and flush when they close. Really give that kitchen a workout! Maintenance:
In addition to the safety demonstration mentioned above, the builder should also demonstrate normal maintenance such as caulking or changing air filter or cleaning the humidifier (on forced air systems) or how to drain sediments from your hot water tank. Attic:
Your inspector will probably have a look at the underside of the roof after it has been framed, but he should be back up there for his final inspection to check for insulation and any signs of daylight (other than from ventilation). Exterior:
Your inspector’s final visit should include a thorough inspection of the exterior, including the roof. The key here is water management: from roof runoff, water runoff from adjoining property, etc. Ask your inspector to check the flashing details especially at roof intersections and penetrations. All exterior surfaces should be sealed wherever a penetration occurs, including from air conditioner lines, outlets, or electric meter. © Copyright, 2007, Todd, Michael & James, Inc. www.homebuildingpitfalls.com Please see the article "Study Pitfalls" for an overview of the best single guide we recommend for anyone considering buying a new home from a production builder. Click here to sign up for a free electronic newsletter on seven critical topics that you must understand before you even think about building a new home. |
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